Mantra: never give up; never give in.

Well, as I’ve mentioned previously, I started surfing in the middle of March. I bought ten lessons from a surf shop, four of them one-on-one. Well, I completed those lessons. Now it’s time to PRACTICE.  Do you know the saying, “How do you get to Carnegie Hall?…practice, practice, practice.” Well, that is true with everything, even surfing!

I went out yesterday and the waves and I had a different plan.  Every time I caught a wave, it was great, euphoric. The only way to catch another one is to paddle back to the break (the point where you turn around, get into position and surf again.) Well, I paddled and paddled and paddled. Each time I paddled into an oncoming wave, I got knocked back a few feet. So I was going a little forward and a lot back. The waves were winning. I was not reaching the break.  That ain’t happening with this girl! (said in my best Texan accent.)

I am not a quitter! I will not give up! I will not give in! I was very tired and spent. I told myself, “put your head down and paddle.” Well, I attempted a few more times but acquiesced to my fatigue. I was out there for an hour and a half!

When my friend and surf coach Karol told me, “Every day is different. You have to keep practicing…” I realized how right she is.  For a fleeting minute I thought, “maybe I should take up roller skating instead.”  NO!! I will NOT give up. I will NOT give in. These waves are my friends! I will surf. I will paddle. I will succeed.

Remember, keep your head down and go for it. Practice, practice, practice. Are you with me?

Aloha,

Denise

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